Isla, Durham review – small plates, big flavours

By Ania Askwith

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Isla, 53 North Road, Durham DH1 4SF

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Best for: fine dining, cocktails, Durham city centre, Durham restaurant, brunch

Everything you need to know about Isla in Durham

If you’re ever in Durham and fancy a spot that’s both relaxed and a bit special, you have to check out Isla. It’s the latest venture from the team behind Coarse, their acclaimed tasting menu restaurant.

Isla offers a delightful brunch and small plates experience. The menu is a creative mix of British and international flavours.

The ambiance is warm and welcoming, striking a balance between casual and refined, which is our favourite kind of place. It’s the kind of place where you can enjoy a leisurely brunch or share a selection of small plates with friends over a cocktail.

Given all this, it’s no surprise that Isla has been on my list forever! So when we booked a little staycation to mark the start of summer, choosing a place for a brunch (our favourite meal of the day) was a no brainer. We finally made it – and wow, it was worth the wait. Isla absolutely delivered.

Small plates at Isla

Scallops with celeriac purée, crispy mushrooms & chicken butter – rich, elegant and beautifully plated. I love scallops and I’ll order them whenever I see them on the menu, and these were as good as scallops get. Perfectly cooked, and everything they came with was there on purpose, to complement the delicate scallops without overpowering them. It was the first thing on the menu that caught my eye, but I saved eating this dish till last – I just knew it would be my highlight, and it didn’t disappoint. It was gorgeous.

Japanese Vegetable Pancake with garlic, Korean sauce & sesame – super savoury and super umami. I didn’t know what to expect from this dish but was intrigued enough to try it and it was a lovely surprise. The texture itself was beautiful but the flavour – especially the sourness – was divine. I loved it.

House Seasonal Salad – Fresh and everything you want from a side salad. It was really enjoyable with the pancakes to really mix the lighter and heavier textures.

Korean Pork Belly with sesame & spring onions – sticky, savoury, super moreish, and literally melted in your mouth. Loved the sauce they came drenched it; just a perfect small plate.

12hr Slow Cooked Beef with black garlic mayo, gherkin ketchup & onions – Comfort food with a gourmet twist. Could be one of the nicest dishes we’ve tried in a long time. Didn’t want to stop eating it; when you get to the garlic mayo it’s such a delicious surprise. A must order for sure.

Rump Steak with celeriac purée, crispy onions & peppercorn sauce – cooked perfectly (how you like it) and full of flavour. The mash/puree was another level and MasterChef worthy.

I actually found it hard not to lick the plates at the end as each dish was exceptional; entirely different from one another but each dish complemented the other in such a gorgeous way; you just didn’t want it all to end.

Stunning. Actually – STUNNING!

Dessert of dreams

But the most delightful meal didn’t finish there. We were full but it’s not a place where you can say no to desserts (the menu is incredible).

We went for:

Oreo Torte with mandarin sorbet – rich in the best way. I love a torte, it is one of my favourite desserts because it is always decadent and super luxurious, and this was as good as a torte can get. It was gorgeous. And the dehydrated puffed mandarin segments were another level genius. Incredible and so inventive. With a lovely hot earl grey – this is the ideal dessert!

French Toast with elderflower strawberries, hazelnut cream & crushed hazelnuts – light, but indulgent at the same time. The hazelnut cream was like a super sophisticated version of a kinder bueno filling – grown up but delivers that nostalgic taste tat you can’t stop eating. Beautiful.

Drinks we loved

When I say these guys can do no wrong, this extends to their drinks too.

We opted for:

Blueberry Flavoured Iced Matcha Latte – this was the best matcha I’ve ever had, and I have matcha regularly. With real blueberries, this drink was an absolute standout. Next time I am in Durham, this is the place I am heading to for my matcha fix!

Mezcal Margarita – If you’re a marg drinker, you’ll know how easy they are to get wrong. This one was flawless – smoky and perfectly balanced.

So…is Isla worth the hype?

This will come as no surprise, but we had the best brunch at Isla. The food – unreal. The drinks- beautiful. And the interiors – understated, minimal but gorgeous. It’s a space that feels calm, stylish and warm – to match their gorgeous menu.

There is not enough superlatives to describe the menu at Isla, I absolutely loved it and only wish we’d gone sooner. But we’ll definitely be back.

They serve more than just small plates – the Sunday roast here looks epic so keep an eye out as we’ll be sure to bring you a review of this at some point!

Location

You’ll find Isla at 53 North Road, Durham DH1 4SF. There is street parking available at the back of the building which is reasonably priced.

Tips for visiting

• If you go for small plates, 2 or 3 per person is a good portion. We went for 5 small plates and a side salad and it was enough to feel super satisfied, while allowing some room for dessert.

• Book early, as it is a popular spot.

• A small outside terrace is available, and there are tables both downstairs and upstairs – advise staff if you have a preference when making the booking.

• Try their drinks and desserts. While the main menu is STUNNING and worth a visit, the drinks and desserts make it a whole experience.

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If you love discovering the best places to eat and drink, things to do, wellness experiences, places to go, hotels and staycation spots in Newcastle, the North East, and beyond, be sure to follow my Newcastle blog for more reviews and recommendations. As a Newcastle blogger, I share everything from foodie finds, self care experiences, to weekend escapes.

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